The official name of book is
"The Chihuahua: El Perrito, the Little Dog",
by Betty Stallard.
This book is available at : http://www.ramblingstarzkennel.com/thechihuahua/
or at this link : amazon.com
the article:
THE CHIHUAHUA HEADPIECE
Grace M. Sette together with Lynne MacLellan
The Chihuahua Club of America describes the Chihuahua as an alert little dog with a saucy expression!
The Chihuahua standard for the dog’s head, as set by the parent club and recognized by the American Kennel Club and clubs worldwide, has barely been modified since inception.
Please see the breed’s standard as applied to the Chihuahua head and neck, reprinted below for review at the end of this chapter.
Keep in mind that the correct expression for this breed, even with a “terrier like temperament”, cannot be achieved without the correct balance on all the individual parts of its ‘headpiece’.
THE CHIHUAHUA HEAD
The Chihuahua’s head is defined by a skull that is well rounded.
The skull type is one that is shorter/flatter faced or what is called brachycephalic.
This head typically comes with a more extreme, deep stop, which may accompany a predisposition for an under bite.
It should appear in balance, if not a tad bit larger than the balanced dog as a whole.
In this chapter we will be addressing the correct Chihuahua headpiece and all that it bears.
This domed head or ‘apple’ head as it is sometimes referred to (similar to a baking apple), is never flat but always round and higher domed.
It is not oval shaped, nor is it too narrow and certainly not flat.
This is the characteristic which defines Chihuahuas from Terriers, Min Pins etc.
The Chihuahua, often referred to as a ‘Head Breed', is so much more than its head, yet one can see why this reference is often misguidedly made.
Please take notice of the sketch ( by Lynne MacLellan/Minegold) on this page, the head is rounded on the top as well as the sides.
The so called ‘deer head’ Chihuahua is not what we are referring to; although they may make fine pets.
They are not what breeders should be perpetuating and are not recognized as correct according to the standard set by the parent club.
In other words, the Chihuahua conforming to the standard is not the dog in the commercial!
Let’s look now at what other features make up the Chihuahua headpiece.
Its jaws should be noticeably lean.
Above the jaws we find a very small amount of flesh to the side of the muzzle, below the eye.
The lips are not remarkable, but worn as a kind of window to the bite within, discussed later in this chapter.
THE CHIHUAHUA MOLERA
Another unique characteristic of the Chihuahua head is an opening called the molera.
This is similar to an open fontanel on a newborn human baby.
In the Chihuahua the molera often times remains partially open throughout the life of the dog.
Although many moleras close as the dog matures, more extreme higher domed skulled dogs typically live out full lives without consequence.
Many of the moleras close as the dog matures.
The molera is not a fault but rather, it is manifested in the Chihuahua -- unique to our breed.
THE CHIHUAHUA MUZZLE
The muzzle should be moderately short as specified in the breed standard.
A well defined stop is deep and exact.
It forms a near 90 degree angle.
This angle begins at the depth of the inner eye down and straight out to the point of the nose.
(3) Muzzle - 90 degree angle (photo by G. Sette)
The muzzle is slightly pointed (not so much to resemble a fox) and roughly ¼ the size of the square of the head according to Colleen T. Mitchell in her “Chihuahua Text Book”.
While one will see a variety of muzzles in the show ring but the correct muzzle is neither too long nor too short.
It is fact that either will spoil the lovely balance of the head.
In a too short muzzle, a Japanese Chin look, can exasperate poor respiratory issues.
Much of the muzzle proportion and eye set depend wholly on the correctly angled stop.
The muzzle is roughly 1/3 length of the head.
When this proportion is seen, the head is most pleasing.
A muzzle that is to narrow destroys the ‘saucy’ expression.
The use of negative photo images eliminates the eye’s misjudgment of measurements, caused by variation in color or asymmetrical markings.
Above muzzle is ¼ size of head and 1/3 length of head, approximately.
THE CHIHUAHUA NOSE
The nose is black or self colored in blondes; pink noses are also allowed in blonde types.
In dilutes such as chocolate, blue or mole (fleshy peach) they should be self-colored.
Nostrils should be open and nose glistening.
THE CHIHUAHUA EYES
The windows of the soul, the eyes, are described as full and round, not slanted.
They never protrude, but they are large and soulful.
They are also luminous, reflective of light, dark or ruby.
Lighter eye color in blond or white dogs is acceptable.
Blue eyes, however, or two different colors within one iris is a serious fault.
A difference in color between each iris is another serious fault.
These eyes are set apart and very well balanced.
Imagine an inverted triangle between them connecting the center of the eyes across the bridge of the muzzle and then each side meeting at the center top of the nose.
Eyes that are too small or too close cannot convey the alert expression so commonly associated with this breed.
THE CHIHUAHUA EARS
The ears are large and upright when alert; they flare in repose at 45 degree angle.
Unfortunately we are seeing many smaller ears than we should, on the otherhand, large ‘bat’ ears are also incorrect.
The Chihuahua’s ears are not, as suggested in the past, ’10 to 2’ on the face of a clock, but more like ten minutes before or ten minutes after the hour.
When relaxed the ears are distanced, giving breadth between them.
The indentation where the ‘stop’ meets the skull and the corner of the eyes, should be parallel.
The ears should not tip forward or backward (with the exception of puppy ears) and should be large and erect.
They should not be so large as to resemble those of a Papillion.
You may see that some dogs have ‘butterfly’ or ‘tulip’ ears, but if they do not tip and stand erect they are proper.
In long coats, ears must have fringing, all else is the same, fringe being the only difference in ears between the two coats.
See ‘clock’ and ‘tulip’ photos opposite this page.
A broken or cropped ear is always a disqualification.
You will find that ears may be in an up and back position when the dog is
moving.
They will be held closer together when the dog is alert.
Ears go back sometimes in play, more so in fear.
Please refer to the photo collage opposite this page.
The ears do far more than listening.
They are there to communicate much of what goes on in this little dog’s mind!
THE CHIHUAHUA NECK
The neck should flatter the headpiece and is arched somewhat, sloping elegantly onto the shoulders.
A long coat is expected to have enough ruff on its neck to distinguish it as just that!
Seasonal coat shedding will result in a thinner or thicker ruff.
A short neck will ruin the proportion of the dog and erase the sense of balance.
The neck, medium in size, should support the head, carrying it frontward.
What is important to note is that insufficient neck upsets the physical balance of the dog and its movement will be compensated.
According to the BCC Standard, Laurence Fitt-Savage’s “A Closer Look at the Chihuahua”, an approximation of the neck length from the skull base to the shoulder should be nearly one third the length of the back.
Swan or ewe necks are faulty and also damaging to proper movement, such as the dog’s reach.
THE CHIHUAHUA BITE
The Chihuahua’s bite is either a level or a scissor one.
Note that the early standard called only for teeth that were level.
According to the CCA standard, one or two teeth may be missing and of no consequence.
Many other countries require the dog to have 6 X 6 incisors.
In our breed, some puppies are born with teeth that have no adult replacements or lose permanent teeth early.
This happens often enough, unfortunately, because today’s jaws have been downsized from those of their long ago ancestors.
Regardless, any distortion of the jaw (malocclusion) such as underbites (prognathism) or overbites (retrognathism) are serious faults!
Distortions include but are not limited to open bite, wry bite, crossbite and are caused many times by misaligned teeth due to crowding in smaller mouths as stated previously.
Throw back to ‘bad’ recessive genes, extra teeth or even adult teeth which never materialize to replace puppy teeth, etc., are other causes
Many times these distortions are minor and an untrained eye will not notice anything amiss without opening the dog’s mouth.
Faults in the bite are best bred out rather than enabling the perpetuation of this serious fault!
All photos by G. Sette
If one can imagine a straight line going down the front of the nose and through the lips, one can better visualize how to look for bite faults from the outside.
(8) Naso Labial Line
When a bite is undershot, our standard considers this a serious fault.
This goes for most breeds, but not for all breeds, just picture a Bulldog for instance!
Although a serious fault is not a disqualification and a dog should not be judged on faults, a jaw that is misaligned must be considered for what it is.
Although todays dogs are judged on attributes, nevertheless, a mean and pouty
or a simply unpleasing look must be considered for what it is, and in our breed it is a defect.
Take the time to study photos of some current Chihuahua champions.
You will find some variation in their individual headpieces, but the standard is always present!
Just consider this little dog is far more than its head!
>>> Grace M. Sette together with Lynne MacLellan
- "The Chihuahua: El Perrito, the Little Dog", by Betty Stallard.
© Published with permission of the author. You can NOT use any part of this article in any form without the agreement with Betty Stallard.
Chihuahua Club of America Breed Standard, Effective 10-1-2008
General Appearance: A graceful, alert, swift-moving compact little dog with saucy expression, and with terrier-like qualities of temperament.
Size, Proportion,
Substance:
Weight - A well balanced little dog not to exceed 6 pounds.
Proportion - The body is off-square; hence, slightly longer when measured from point of shoulder to point of buttocks than height at the withers. Somewhat shorter bodies are preferred in males. Disqualification - Any dog over 6 pounds in weight.
Head: A well rounded "apple dome" skull, with or without molera.
Expression - Saucy.
Eyes - Full, round, but not protruding, balanced, set well apart-luminous dark or luminous ruby. Light eyes in blond or white-colored dogs permissible. Blue eyes or a difference in the color of the iris in the two eyes, or two different colors within one iris should be considered a serious
fault.
Ears - Large, erect type ears, held more upright when alert, but flaring to the sides at a 45 degree angle when in repose, giving breadth between the ears. Stop - Well defined. When viewed in profile, it forms a near 90 degree angle where muzzle joins skull.
Muzzle - Moderately short, slightly pointed. Cheeks and jaws lean. Nose - Self-colored in blond types, or black. In moles, blues, and chocolates, they are self-colored. In blond types, pink noses permissible.
Bite - Level or scissors. Overshot or undershot, or any distortion of the bite or jaw, should be penalized as a serious fault. A missing tooth or two is permissible. Disqualifications - Broken down or cropped ears.
Neck, Topline, Body:
Neck - Slightly arched, gracefully sloping into lean shoulders.
Topline- Level.
Body - Ribs rounded and well sprung (but not too much "barrel-shaped").
Tail - Moderately long, carried sickle either up or out, or in a loop over the back with tip just touching the back. (Never tucked between legs.) Disqualifications - Docked tail, bobtail.
Forequarters:
Shoulders - Lean, sloping into a slightly broadening support above straight forelegs that set well under, giving free movement at the elbows. Shoulders should be well up, giving balance and soundness, sloping into a level back (never down or low). This gives a well developed chest and strength of forequarters.
Feet - A small, dainty foot with toes well split up but not spread, pads cushioned. (Neither the hare nor the cat foot.) Dewclaws may be removed. Pasterns - Strong.
Hindquarters: Muscular, with hocks well apart, neither out nor in, well let down, firm and sturdy. Angulation - Should equal that of forequarters. The feet are as in front. Dewclaws may be removed.
Coat:
In the Smooth Coats, the coat should be of soft texture, close and glossy. (Heavier coats with undercoats permissible.) Coat placed well over body with ruff on neck preferred, and more scanty on head and ears. Hair on tail preferred furry.
In Long Coats, the coat should be of a soft texture, either flat or slightly wavy, with undercoat preferred. Ears - Fringed. Tail - Full and long (as a plume). Feathering on feet and legs, pants on hind legs and large ruff on the neck desired and preferred. (The Chihuahua should be groomed only to create a neat appearance.) Disqualification - In Long Coats, too thin coat that resembles bareness.
Color: Any color - Solid, marked or splashed.
Gait:
The Chihuahua should move swiftly with a firm, sturdy action, with good reach in front equal to the drive from the rear.
From the rear, the hocks remain parallel to each other, and the foot fall of the rear legs follows directly behind that of the forelegs.
The legs, both front and rear, will tend to converge slightly toward a central line of gravity as speed increases.
The side view shows good, strong drive in the rear and plenty of reach in the front, with head carried high.
The topline should remain firm and the backline level as the dog moves.
Temperament: Alert, projecting the 'terrier-like' attitudes of self importance, confidence, self- reliance.
Disqualifications: Any dog over 6 pounds in weight. Broken down or cropped ears. Docked tail, bobtail. In
Long Coats, too thin coat that resembles bareness.
Approved August 12, 2008
Effective October 1, 2008