The Joy of Breeding Your Own Show Dog

                                                Ann Seranne

 

Chapter One

 

 

Before You Breed 

 

 

Breeding dogs is a serious business and should not be undertaken without a great deal of thought and purpose in mind. It is a combination of art and science, of common sense and intelligence, to which must be added a modicum of luck and a tremendous amount of intestinal fortitude. 

 

Breeders have a grave responsibility to the lives they create-living, loving creatures of bone, blood and muscle, that might never have been born had not a breeder taken it into his hands to mate a certain dog to a certain bitch.

 

Granted, if all goes well, it can be a stimulating, rewarding experience, but the many failures along the way can be devastating and heart-breaking. 

How many times have I heard myself say, "I'll never breed another dog!" But, somehow, with the irrepressible optimism of a dedicated breeder, I begin to think how lovely a litter might be from that new champion bitch if bred to that beautiful young male. I manage to pick up the broken pieces and begin again.

 

Each breeding is more exciting than the last, and the projected pedigree of the anticipated litter promises exceptional quality. 

Breeding dogs is a privilege and not a means of making money. That is not to say that if you can breed quality animals and still make a profit, there is any law against it, but to enter the field of breeding dogs primarily as a money-making project is not what serious breeding or this book are all about. 

 

Hopefully The Joy of Breeding Your Own Show Dog will discourage many who "just want to have a litter"; will make an equal number stop long enough to consider if they are ready, equipped physically, mentally and emotionally to begin a breeding program; and will help the intelligent enthusiast begin the right way. 

 

 

What You Should Know Before Breeding Dogs

 

There is much you should know before breeding your first litter-must know if you are going to be successful in raising a litter of healthy, well-adjusted pups. 

First, you should have some practical knowledge of mating, care of the bitch in whelp and in whelping and conditioning the litter.

I hope to be able to guide you through these aspects of breeding by passing along to you the successes and failures of almost twenty years' experience which, while extensive, is by no means complete.

New techniques are being discovered every day, and what might be the right way to do something today may be improved upon or replaced with an entirely different method tomorrow. 

 

The Breed Standard

 

In addition to these obvious requirements, a breeder must be able to understand and interpret the American Kennel Club's Standard of Perfection for his breed, and have a clear mental picture of what he considers the perfect specimen or the ideal.

This can be done only by an intensive study of his breed's background, and by careful scrutiny of numerous specimens of the breed, both in and out of the show ring, accompanied by an unprejudiced evaluation of these dogs against the standard. 

 

Then there is type. How will you be able to select good foundation stock without an understanding of type?

You may have the soundest dog in the world, perfect in color, coat and temperament, but without that undefinable feature- type-any dog will fall short of his standard and will seldom bring home the ribbons from a dog show. 

 

Genetics

 

Once you have selected your foundation bitch, how are you going to select the stud dog that could best produce quality, typey puppies, unless you have a working knowledge of genetics and breeding principles? 

In order to breed intelligently, the dog breeder must know how a characteristic is transmitted from one generation to another.

Why do some characteristics appear generation after generation while others disappear, only to crop up in the great- or great-great-grandchildren? Why do puppies from one bitch differ so drastically from puppies out of a full sister to that bitch? 

The answers to these questions lie in the science of genetics which is, unfortunately, no sure road to perfection.

Somehow Nature has a way, now and then, of throwing in a joker, and it is only by understanding the laws of heredity that you will know where that joker may have come from and the best way to eliminate it from your line. 

I do not profess to be an expert in the field of genetics, but I hope to be able to pass along to you, in the simplest terms possible, what it has taken me years to absorb from the many technical books written by qualified geneticists, and to show you how to apply this knowledge to your breed. 

 

After all is learned, planned, charted and projected, genetics, at best an applied science and experience, combined with an analytical mind, can be your best teacher.

A breeder must constantly test the mechanics of heredity within the genetic structure of his particular strain of dogs. If a recognized theory works for him, it can be used time and time again. If not, an alternate must be found. 

 

Structure and Locomotion

 

Like love and marriage, structure and locomotion "go together" and cannot be divorced from each other. A study of both is essential for every dog breeder and for every judge. 

 

Just as the artist or sculptor needs knowledge of anatomy in order to sketch or sculpt the human body, so must the breeder or judge know what lies beneath the skin and coat to be able to evaluate the true quality of a dog. 

 

To move properly a dog must be built correctly, and the functional principles of a dog's structure remain the same whether the breed is the diminutive Yorkshire Terrier or the giant Irish Wolfhound. Each has the same number of bones and muscles, and the way these parts fit together remains the same for all breeds. When a dog is correctly built, its movement will be smooth, graceful and efficient. 

 

The skeletal system of a dog is divided into two general parts: One is the axial skeleton consisting of the skull, spine, sternum, ribs and pelvis. These are the bones that protect the vital organs. Two is the appendicular skeleton composed of the shoulder blades, forelegs and hindlegs. 

 

It's not necessary to memorize all the medical terms of the bones in a dog's body. Leave that to your veterinarian. But it is important to be familiar with common terms such as patella, croup, pastern, stifle, and hock and to understand such "doggie" expressions as cow-hocked, splay-footed, reach of neck, out at the elbow, roach backed and so on. 

 

In the front assembly, the shoulder blade or scapula is a focal point, and no dog can be better than the set of this bone. Since it is not possible to measure the angles and lengths of bones and joints in a live dog with scientific accuracy, the term generally used to describe optimum slant of the shoulder is "good layback."

A good shoulder, together with an upper arm correctly positioned against the chest wall, should function like a smooth, shock-absorbing mechanism as it accepts thrust from the rear quarters and lifts and carries the body forward.

What many of us fail to realize is that the shoulder blade is quite a mobile bone, attached to the rib cage only by muscle. In motion it glides up, forward and slightly inward as its upper tip pivots in elliptical fashion against the withers.

Shoulder assemblies vary in different types of dogs, with consequent varying styles of gait. In any dog, however, a correctly positioned scapula contributes to topline and good head carriage, giving the neckline a pleasing transition into the withers, and breadth and strength to the forequarters. 

When watching any dog move, whether a Working dog or a Toy, keep your eye on the withers. They tell a lot. You will never, or should never, see a top-winning dog with withers that rise and fall abruptly as it moves. If they do, that dog is poorly structured. 

The rear assembly of a dog supports its body and supplies the drive in motion. A pelvis that slopes at a 30-degree angle to the spine permits greater efficiency of stride than any other angulation of this assembly. 

 

Many good books have been written on the subject of structure or anatomy, movement or locomotion. One that should be required reading for all dog people is The Dog in Action, by McDowell Lyon. It explains by word and illustration, often humorously, always interestingly, what I have tried briefly to outline here, and much more. The subjects are far too comprehensive to be more than touched on in this book. 

 

Don't expect to digest Lyon's book the first time you read it. Use it for reference and reread it as frequently as you find yourself able to apply its principles to the evaluation of your dogs. 

Another most important book to own for quick reference is the charmingly and effectively illustrated Dogsteps, Illustrated Gait at a Glance, by Rachel Page Elliott. 

 

A Good Eye and a Gentle Hand

 

No matter how many books you read and how much technical information you amass, your study must go hand-in-hand with practical experience or it will be of little use to you. Your hands must be able to tell you how a dog is built.

Your eye must be trained to confirm the findings of your hands as you watch the dog standing stationary before you and in motion, and to quickly evaluate its general condition, characteristics and type. 

Hands need not be rough. You can outline the slope of a shoulder blade or pelvis, determine the angulation of a stifle, the straightness of a leg more accurately with a gentle finger than with the entire hand. Try pressing your hand hard against your jaw bone, then run the tip of your finger gently around its perimeter.

Which touch tells you more about the formation of your jaw? In the same way, a light touch will tell you more about your dog than a rough, sometimes hurtful one. 

The eyes and hands of a judge in the show ring should do their best to seek out the virtues of a dog, but it is up to the eyes and hands of the breeder to find the faults of the dogs in his kennel and then set about eliminating them from his breeding program. 

 

What You Should Have Before Breeding Dogs

 

Interest, knowledge, time and stamina are only a few requirements for breeding dogs. You must also have proper facilities and enough money to invest in quality stock. If you start with nothing, you get nothing. The novice, who thinks he can breed a pet-quality bitch to a pet-quality dog and come up with a treasure, will pay out over the years, in his attempt to improve, a great deal more than if he had begun with one good bitch.

This is especially true if he purchased that bitch from a breeder who had already spent many years weeding out, discarding and selecting only the best to carry on his bloodlines. It won't come cheap but, no matter what the initial cost, you will be far ahead of the game, and your starting investment is relatively unimportant. 

Should you be lucky enough to find one or more such bitches, and they will not be easy to come by because breeders are reluctant to let quality bitches go into inexperienced hands, by all means listen to any advice the breeder is willing to pass along to you. No one will know better than he the correct mate for the bitch.

He will be able to explain to you why he feels a particular dog is likely to give you best results. He knows the background of his stock and the quality of the progeny they have produced in the past. You have nothing to lose and everything to gain by putting your faith and trust in the breeder of your foundation. It won't be long before you will be able to try your own wings. 

 

Proper Facilities

 

In the beginning, depending on the breed you have selected, you may allow your foundation stock to be a part of your family-living, eating and sleeping with you.

But the time will come when you will have to designate a room in your house, which is quiet and away from the main stream of house traffic, in which to whelp and raise your first litter.

Often a family room, an extra bedroom or an outmoded dining room can serve as a starting kennel. It should have plenty of cross-ventilation, adequate heat, sunshine and, if possible, egress to a fenced-in patch of lawn or graveled driveway. 

 

Prior to entering into any breeding program you will have, of course, checked the dog laws of your community and, hopefully, live in an unrestricted county or township. If not, you had better start thinking about when and where you are going to move when your dog family exceeds the legal limit. 

 

If you have no limitations and enjoy a permanent life-style, you should begin to plan on enlarging your present facilities, before your home becomes sheer bedlam. You might just as well face the fact that, any time you have a litter, your "family" is likely to grow. So now is not too soon to anticipate your future needs. 

 

Seek expert advice on modern kennel construction. Design a kennel which is best suited and practical for your breed. If a kennel doesn't work for you, and by that I mean make your life easier, then it isn't worth building. At the same time the well-being of the dogs must be considered if you are going to continue to raise happy puppies.

 

It's not as easy in a kennel as in the home, where the pups are in constant touch with people, and the hustle and bustle of a variety of activities. As your breeding stock multiplies it becomes increasingly difficult to give each and every puppy, whether show-quality or pet, the necessary time to assure its essential conditioning during the critical periods of its young life. 

 

Psychologically a kennel should be a safe, happy place for dogs and, while it must be practical, thought should be given to various ways to keep the dogs amused. Boredom can manifest itself in constant barking, circling, licking, chewing, fence fighting, loss of weight and other undesirable habits.

"Constant suppression of activity and unending confinement in the same drab concrete and chain-link enclosure, day after day, is a form of torture ... for man or beast!" This is a quote from an excellent article published in Western Animal News, and I have permission to reprint from it some constructive suggestions. 

 

For starters, when building a kennel avoid at any cost building square runs. The square is the best way to encourage a dog to just sit and do nothing. A rectangle, or any other shape, at least encourages the dog to walk up and down. Try to provide a view of some sort. Plant a tree or put in a planter.

Who wants to look at a solid wall all the time? If you are using concrete blocks, you can offset them enough to provide peepholes, or buy blocks with openings. And even if you already have an existing kennel you can, with a little imagination, change it physically from time to time. Puppy runs are fun runs!

Instead of sitting and waiting for the time to pass, they should be running and playing most of the day ... and developing strong bodies and minds. Several large rough stones, just big enough for a puppy to sit on and play "king of the mountain," liven up the area.

 

One of the best boredom-breakers is large cement drainage tiles. They are large enough to make a snug tunnel or to climb on and off. They come in a variety of sizes and shapes and can be moved from one area to another fairly easily. Whenever you do any pruning of trees or bushes, save a few good pieces to toss into the runs.

Many dogs delight tearing them up, playing wild games of tug-o-war, or just carrying them around. Any empty cardboard boxes (except those joined with staples) should make a stop in a dog run before being destroyed. They end up in pieces, but not before providing a lot of energy release to the dogs. 

Balls of all sizes (except those small enough to be swallowed) brighten the days, cost little, and help develop canine personalities. Periodically, throw some kind of fresh fruit or vegetables in with them as a different kind of toy.

 

The bitterness of a lemon or grapefruit fascinates many dogs ... and an apple or an orange is just a sweet-tasting ball! Potatoes, celery stalks and carrots are crunchy toys that provide vitamins! Any change is a help. The runs may seem all alike to you, but they aren't to the dogs. Move them around from one kennel to another periodically. Move their sleeping platforms (or pillows) and water dishes around. Do anything for change.

 

Sure there are some drawbacks to this kind of thinking. Bits of cardboard, branches and vegetables are a bother to pick up at cleaning time. But compare this small nuisance to the results of enforced monotony on the dog.

 

Many forms of undesirable behavior are rooted in boredom. And the worst of all is the slow stagnation of character caused by the prison-camp form of confinement. There are endless little ways of breaking the chain of monotony if you will just give it a little thought. The only limit is your imagination. I would like to add-and your common sense. 

 

 

 

 

 

(Continues...)